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Urea: the versatile effects and benefits of this ingredient

Urea is a long-standing favourite in skincare This is because the active ingredient, which naturally occurs in the body, is not only optimally tolerated, it also has numerous positive effects. The deciding factor: the concentration. Find out how the effects of urea can also help your skin and what you need to consider when using it.

24 January 2025 • 3 min. reading time

What is urea?

The term urea comes from Latin. It is formed naturally in certain metabolic processes in the body. Urea accumulates in the uppermost layer of skin. The so-called stratum corneum binds up to 7% of this valuable substance. The excess is simply excreted in the urine.

Urea is part of the NMF (natural moisturising factor) of your skin. As such, it binds water particularly well and ensures that it is not easily lost. If your skin is dry or even flaking, a urea deficiency is often the cause. This is because it drastically increases transepidermal water loss. This means that your skin can absorb water but cannot retain it.

Urea is therefore not just a skincare ingredient, but a natural component of the skin barrier that is essential for good health. That’s why it is found mainly in repair care or particularly rich creams. Urea is not comedogenic. You can also use it to provide relief for chronic skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. However, these special cases should definitely be left to professionals. So before you experiment with urea, ask your trusted dermatologist.

Note

Although urea used to be obtained from horse urine, today the crystalline variant of the endogenous substance is synthesised from natural gas and consists of CO₂ and ammonia. It is therefore produced synthetically without the use of urine.

Urea benefits: why concentration is crucial

Urea is generally well tolerated as an active ingredient because the body is already familiar with it. In addition, there are lots of urea benefits for skin:

  • Urea can attract and bind water in the skin.
  • Urea has an antibacterial effect and can inhibit inflammations.
  • It can prevent itching.
  • Urea is known for its keratolytic (descaling) properties.

But what determines when the urea takes effect and how? It’s quite simple: the concentration in the respective care product. Between 2% and 5%, the smoothing and hydrating properties of the substance predominate. Its effectiveness against inflammation also comes to the fore in this concentration range. Therefore, care products for very dry skin usually “only” contain concentrations up to 5%.

In higher concentrated products, something amazing happens. The urea, which initially has a purely nourishing effect, develops descaling properties. Your feet will benefit from this in particular. Because from a concentration of 10% urea, daily care can help to soften calluses and make them easier to remove. This process is also called keratolysis. Calluses are removed, the skin becomes soft again and painful cracks can also disappear. This is why urea is ideal for the care of dry and cracked skin.

Urea concentrations and their effects

Urea skincare: these products contain the active ingredient

From body lotion to shower gel, from shampoo to scalp tonic – the uses of urea in skincare are as diverse as its benefits. To find the right product, you should know why you want to use it.

It doesn’t always have to be due to an illness. Even completely healthy skin can sometimes dry out or start to flake. The cause of this is always an increased loss of water through the skin barrier. This can be triggered or intensified by the following factors:

  • Cleansers that are too strong and not suitable for the skin type
  • Wrong or insufficient care
  • Too much contact with water (e.g. hand washing)
  • Dry air from heating systems and bitter cold in the winter months
  • The natural concentration of urea decreases with age

Urea benefits are particularly noticeable in the case of dry and itchy skin. This is because it regulates moisture, has a soothing effect and can make the skin more supple. That’s why you often find urea in rich hand or foot care products.

If you have an itchy scalp, urea can also help to balance moisture levels and thus relieve feelings of tightness and itching. Do you suffer from calluses on your elbows? You can use products with a concentration of at least 20% urea if you want to ensure smooth and supple skin.

You can also find urea in anti-ageing products such as serums or face creams, generally in combination with other moisturising ingredients such as hyaluronic acid. This plumps up the surface, making smaller wrinkles disappear and allowing the complexion to develop its natural radiance.

FAQs

Is urea made from urine? Urea was actually once made from horse urine. Nowadays, however, it is produced synthetically – so urea-based care products do not contain any urine.
Who is urea best suited for? Urea-based skincare is ideal for very dry or scaly skin. It is also effective for calluses on the feet or elbows. Likewise, it works well in combination with an antifungal agent to treat nail fungus, since the affected skin cells peel off more quickly. Blemished skin and acne can also benefit from the keratolytic effect of urea, as it helps to open pores and allow sebum to drain.
What side effects can occur when using urea? Yes, urea side effects are possible. It is not ideal for open or inflamed skin areas, as it can cause severe burning. Infants under two years of age should only be treated with urea after consulting a dermatologist, as the effect is often too strong for sensitive skin. In general, the application of urea can sometimes cause a tingling sensation. As long as there is no redness or irritation afterwards, you can ignore this effect.
Can urea make the skin thinner? This is a persistent myth that is not true. Even though urea has keratolytic effects, it does not cause a thinning effect. This is because your skin is a dynamic tissue: the processes of skin formation and skin breakdown occur constantly and in parallel. Urea can break down old skin cells, but fresh ones are produced just as quickly.

Takeaway

Urea is now a must in skincare. As a classic moisturiser, it makes dry skin more supple again. In addition, urea has a keratolytic effect and can help to get rid of annoying calluses on the feet or elbows. As a substance produced naturally in the body, it is considered to be very well tolerated. Side effects can occur if used on babies or in the case of micro-injuries or very sensitive skin. However, the positive benefits of urea clearly outweigh these, making the active ingredient a classic in skincare.

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